कोरीगड – माहिती

कोरीगड किंवा कोराईगड हा मावळ भागातील एक प्रमुख किल्ला आहे. मावळ प्रांत हा विस्तीर्ण असल्यामुळे तो बारा भागात विभागण्यात आला होता. त्यापैकी मुळशी नदीच्या खोऱ्याजवळ असलेल्या कोरबारसे मावळ या भागात हा किल्ला आहे.कोरीगड किल्ल्याची समुद्रसपाटीपासूनची उंची ९३० मी आहे.

कसे जावे ?

कोरीगड किल्ला हा लोणावळ्यापासून अदमासे २५ कि मी वर असलेल्या पेठ शहापूर या गावाजवळील वाटेने १ ते १.३० तासात चढता येतो.या गावात येण्यासाठी प्रथम रेल्वे अथवा रस्त्याच्या मार्गाने लोणावळ्याला यावे लागते. लोणावळ्यातून ॲम्बी व्हॅलीकडे जाणाऱ्या रस्त्याने गाव गाठता येते.लोणावळ्याच्या एस.टी स्थानकातून ॲम्बी व्हॅलीकडे जाणारी एस.टी आपल्याला पेठ शहापूर गावात आणते.

कोरीगड किल्ला उत्तर- दक्षिण पसरलेला आहे.किल्ल्यावर येण्यासाठी उत्तरेकडील पेठ शहापूर गावातून मळलेली वाट आहे.पेठ शहापूर गाव डावीकडे ठेवत एक पायवाट आपल्याला साधारण अर्ध्या तासात किल्ल्याच्या पायर्‍यांजवळ आणून सोडते. या पायवाटेने आपण किल्ल्याच्या उत्तरेकडून किल्ल्याच्या पुर्वेकडील भागात येतो. ज्या ठिकाणी पायर्‍या सुरू होतात तो किल्ल्याचा पायथा आहे.किल्ल्यावर येण्यासाठी २८० पायर्‍या आहेत.

साधारण १०० पायर्‍या चढल्यावर उजवीकडे एक मोठी गुहा दिसते.त्या गुहेच्या बाजूला एक छोटे गणेश मंदिर आहे. गुहा बर्‍यापैकी प्रशस्त आहे.पावसाळा वगळता या गुहेत ८-१० लोक वास्तव्य करू शकतात.

साधारण १४० पायर्‍या चढल्यावर उजवीकडे एका छोट्या गुहेत एक पाण्याचे टाके दिसते.यातील पाणी पिण्ययोग्य नाही.एक किंवा दोन माणसे बसू शकतील इतकीच जागा या गुहेत आहे.

साधारण १८० पायर्‍या चढल्यावर समोर एक अजून छोटी गुहा आहे. या गुहेच्या डाव्या बाजूला थकलेल्यांना बसण्यासाठी काही बाके आहेत.या ठिकाणाहून किल्ल्याच्या मुख्य दरवाजाजवळ आल्याची जाणीव होते.

या वाटेने उरलेल्या पायर्‍या चढून आपण गणेश दरवाजातून किल्ल्यात प्रवेश करतो.गणेश दरवाजाच्या वरच्या बाजूला दोन्ही बाजूस कमलपुष्पे कोरलेली आहेत.आता एक लाकडी दरवाजा बसवला आहे.

काय पहावे ?

कोरीगड किल्ल्याची वैशिष्ट्ये म्हणजे त्याचा विस्तार आणि इतका विस्तीर्ण असून आजही बर्‍यापैकी मजबूत अवस्थेत असलेली किल्ल्याची तटबंदी. कोरीगड किल्ल्याच्या तटबंदीवरून किल्ल्याची टेहळणी करता येते. तटबंदीवरून चालणे हा एक वेगळा अनुभव असतो. तटबंदीवर जागोजागी तोफा डागण्यासाठी असलेल्या जंग्या आहेत तसेच काही लहान मोठ्या तोफा किल्ल्यावर पहायला मिळतात.

कोराईमाता मंदिर –

किल्ल्याच्या दक्षिणेकडील बाजूला कोराईमातेचे मंदिर आहे.हे मंदिर एका पक्क्या घराप्रमाणे बांधलेले आहे. मंदिराला पत्र्याचे छप्पर आहे.मंदिरात कोराईमातेची मूर्ती आहे.मंदिराच्या प्रवेशद्वारावर हत्ती कोरलेले आहेत. मंदिरासमोर एका चौथर्‍यावर दीपमाळ आहे.मंदिरासमोर बसायला काही बाके आहेत.कोराईमातेच्या मंदिरावरून या किल्ल्याला कोराईगड असे म्हणतात.

चोर दरवाजा –

कोरईमातेच्या मंदिरावरून पुढे उतरल्यास एक दरवाजा दिसतो.कोरीगडावरून एक वाट किल्ल्याच्या दक्षिणेकडील बाजूला आंबवणे गावात उतरते.या मार्गाची बर्‍याच प्रमाणात पडझड झालेली असल्याने या वाटेने किल्ल्यावर फारसे कोणी येत नाही.या चोर दरवाजाचा उपयोग संकटकाळात किल्ल्यावरून निसटण्यासाठी केला जात असे.

दक्षिणेकडील बुरूज –

चोर दरवाजाच्या बाजूने किल्ल्याच्या दक्षिणेकडे गेल्यास आपल्याला एक बुरुज पहावयास मिळतो.हा बुरुज किल्ल्याचा दक्षिणेकडील शेवटचा भाग आहे. या बुरुजाखाली एक दुसरा बुरुज पहिल्या बुरुजाच्या बाहेरच्या बाजूला आहे.या बुरुजावरून मुळशी नदी, मुळशी तलावाचा भाग आणि ॲम्बी व्हॅली (छोटी घरे, विमानतळ आणि इतर इमारती) पहावयास मिळतात.

शिवमंदिर –

महाराष्ट्रातील जवळपास प्रत्येक किल्ल्यावर एक शिवमंदिर असतेच, त्याप्रमाणे कोरीगडावरसुद्धा एक शिवमंदिर आहे.हे शिवमंदिर गणेश दरवाजातून आत शिरल्यावर उजवीकडे आहे.शिवमंदिराच्या समोर दगडात कोरलेला नंदी आहे आणि बाजूला दोन मोठ्या तोफा पहावयास मिळतात.या शिवमंदिराच्या मागे अजून एक छोटे मंदिर आहे.

तलाव –

शिवमंदिराच्या मागे आणि एका बाजूला असे दोन मोठे तलाव किल्ल्यावर आहेत.एका काळात किल्ल्यावर खूप वस्ती असावी असा अंदाज या तलावांच्या आकारावरून बांधता येतो.तलावांमधील पाणी नितळ असले तरी पिण्ययोग्य नाही.

उत्तरेकडील बुरूज –

कोरीगडाची उत्तर बाजू निमुळती होत एका बुरूजावर संपलेली दिसते.या बुरूजावर एक निशाण आहे.पेठ शहापूर गावातून किल्ल्यावर येताना आपल्याला हा बुरूज दिसतो.या बुरुजावरून पेठ शहापूर गाव, आपण ज्या वाटेने किल्ल्यावर येतो ती वाट स्पष्ट दिसते.वातावरण स्वच्छ असेल तर या बुरुजावरून घनगड किल्ला, तेलबैला आणि सुधागड दिसू शकतो.

कधी जावे ?

कोरीगड किल्ला हा कोणत्याही ऋतूत पाहता येण्यासारखा किल्ला आहे.पावसाळ्यात दाट धुक्यामुळे किल्ला चढताना आणि फिरताना येणारा अनुभव अवर्णनीय असतो.पावसाळ्यात किल्ल्याच्या पायर्‍यांवरून चढताना खाली येणाऱ्या पाण्यातून चढण्याचा एक वेगळाच अनुभव मिळतो.

हिवाळ्यात स्वच्छ वातावरणामुळे किल्ल्यावरून आजूबाजूचा परिसर बघता येतो.हिवाळ्यात सकाळी किल्ल्यावरून मनसोक्त फोटोग्राफी करता येते.तसेच किल्ल्याच्या तटबंदीवरून चालणे हिवाळ्यात जास्त सुरक्षित आहे.

उन्हाळ्यात किल्ल्यावर असणाऱ्या पिण्ययोग्य पाण्याच्या अभावामुळे किल्ल्यावर येताना एक लीटर पाणी जास्त आणणे गरजेचे असते.उन्हाळ्यात सकाळी लवकर किल्ला बघून ऊन वाढण्याच्या आत उतरावे.उन्हाळ्यात किल्ल्यावर इतर ऋतुंच्या तुलनेने कमी गर्दी असते.

हरिश्चंद्रगड – माहिती

हरिश्चंद्रगड हा महाराष्ट्रातील एक प्रमुख गड आहे (एखाद्या किल्ल्याप्रमाणे याला तटबंदी आणि बुरूज नसल्याने त्याचा समावेश गडांमध्ये करावा लागेल).
महाराष्ट्रातील तीन प्रमुख जिल्ह्य़ांच्या (ठाणे , पुणे आणि अहमदनगर) सीमा जिथे लागतात तिथे या गडाचे स्थान आहे.

कसे जावे ?

या अजस्र गडावर येण्याचे तीन प्रचलित मार्ग आहेत.

पहिला सोपा मार्ग अहमदनगर जिल्ह्यातील पाचनई गावातून मंगळगंगा नदीच्या प्रवाहाला समांतर येतो. या मार्गावरून गडावर येण्यासाठी २.३० -३.०० तास लागतात.या मार्गावरून येताना आपण गड उत्तरेकडून दक्षिणेकडे चढतो.

दुसरा मार्ग दक्षिण पूर्वेकडून पुणे जिल्ह्यातील खिरेश्वर गावातून टोलार खिंडीतून येतो.या मार्गावरून गडावर येण्यासाठी ४.०० -४.३० तास लागतात.या मार्गावरून येताना आपण गड टोलार खिंडीपर्यंत दक्षिणेकडून उत्तरेकडे आणि पुढे डावीकडे वळल्यावर पूर्वेकडून
पश्चिमेकडे चढतो.हा मार्ग पहिल्या मार्गाच्या तुलनेत अवघड आहे.

तिसरा मार्ग ठाणे जिल्ह्यातील बेलपाडा मार्गे आहे.हा मार्ग म्हणजे सरधोपट पायवाट नसून अजस्र खडकांमधून वर्षानुवर्ष कोसळणाऱ्या धबधब्यामुळे नैसर्गिकरित्या तयार झाला आहे.हा मार्ग हरिश्चंद्रगडाचा मध्यबिंदू समजला जाणाऱ्या हरिश्चंद्रेश्वर मंदिराकडे न येता हरिश्चंद्रगडावरील प्रमुख आकर्षण असलेल्या कोकणकड्यावर येतो.असंख्य अजस्र खडक सर करण्यासाठी या वाटेने येताना प्रस्तरारोहणाचे तंत्र अवगत असणे आवश्यक आहे.

काय पहावे ?

हरिश्चंद्रेश्वर मंदिर –

शिलाहार राजा झंज याच्या काळात (८ वे शतक) बारा नद्यांच्या जवळ शिवमंदिरांची स्थापना करण्यात आली होती, त्यापैकी मंगळगंगा नदीच्या उगमस्थानी असलेले शिवमंदिर हेमाडपंती शैलीचे असून एका भल्यामोठ्या कातळामधून कोरून काढले आहे.हे मंदिर हरिश्चंद्रगडाचा मध्यबिंदू आहे.

प्रथमदर्शनी या मंदिराचा सोनेरी कळस दृष्टीस पडतो आणि आपण जसजसे मंदिराच्या जवळ जातो आपल्याला मंदिर उलगडत जाते.मंदिराच्या सभोवती दगडी भिंत आहे जी मंदिराचा आवार स्पष्ट करते.मंदिराचे प्रवेशद्वार एका वेळेस एकच व्यक्ती आत जाऊ शकेल इतके छोटे असले तरी प्रवेशद्वाराजवळील दगडातील कोरीव कामामुळे शोभून दिसते.

प्रवेशद्वारातून आत शिरल्यावर मुख्य मंदिर आहे ज्यात शिवपिंड, नागाची प्रतिकृती , घंटा आणि त्रिशूळ आहे. शिवपिंडीवर दुग्धाभिषेकासाठी कमंडलू आहे. शिवपिंडीसमोर दगडात कोरून काढलेला नंदी आहे. मुख्य मंदिराच्या डावीकडे शेंदूर लावलेली सुबक गणेश मुर्ती आहे.

मुख्य मंदिराच्या मागे एक प्रशस्त गुहा आहे.या गुहेत एक पालखी पहावयास मिळते.हरिश्चंद्रगडावर येणारे पर्यटक या गुहेत वास्तव्य करू शकतात.या गुहेच्या खाली एक तळघर आहे.या तळघरात चांगदेव ऋषींनी १४०० वर्षे तप केले होते असे स्थानिक गावकरी सांगतात.गुहेच्या खाली पाण्याच्या अनेक टाक्या आहेत.त्यातील गुहेच्या डाव्या बाजूस असलेल्या टाक्यातील पाणी पिण्ययोग्य आहे.

मुख्य मंदिराच्या आवारात अनेक छोटी मंदिरे आहेत. अनेक प्राचीन दगडी वास्तू आहेत.त्यांची पडझड झाली असल्याने त्या वास्तूंची ओळख पटत नाही.परंतु या मंदिर परिसरातून प्राचीन वैभवाची प्रचीती येते.

हरिश्चंद्रेश्वर मंदिर हे प्राचीन स्थापत्यशैलीचे उत्तम उदाहरण आहे.एका अजस्र कातळामधून कोरीव काम करून अशा प्रकारची मंदिरे उभारण्याची परंपरागत कला त्या काळात प्रचलित होती.

कोकणकडा –

हरिश्चंद्रगडावरचे मुख्य आकर्षण काय, असा प्रश्न विचारल्यावर त्याचे बहुमताने जे उत्तर मिळते ते म्हणजे कोकणकडा.एखाद्या चित्रकाराने आपल्या कल्पनेतून डोंगरावरून दिसणारे दृश्य या नावाने एक निसर्गचित्र काढले तर ते जसे दिसेल तसे प्रत्यक्षात कोकणकड्यावरून दृश्य दिसते.

कोकणकडा हा एक अंतर्वक्राकार आकाराचा ३५०० फूट खोल दरी असलेला , एखाद्या अर्धवट तुटलेल्या बशीच्या आकाराचा कडा , हरिश्चंद्रेश्वर मंदिराच्या पश्चिमेला आहे.या कड्याच्या मध्यावर उभे राहिले असता उजवीकडे नळीची वाट, डावीकडे रोहिदास शिखर आणि समोर दरीत कोकणाचा (ठाणे जिल्ह्यातील) प्रदेश दिसतो.

कोकणकड्याच्या उंचीमुळे आणि पावसाळ्यात पसरणार्‍या दाट धुक्यामुळे इथून दरीत पडण्याची शक्यता आहे.यावर उपाय म्हणून आता सुरक्षेच्या दृष्टीने इथे रेलींग बसवलेले आहे.कोकणकड्याचे एका टोकापासून दुसर्‍या टोकापर्यंतचे अंतर साधारण एक कि.मी आहे.संपूर्ण कोकणकडा फिरण्यास अर्धा तास लागतो.

कोकणकडा वेगवेगळ्या ऋतुंमध्ये वेगवेगळे चित्र दाखवतो. उन्हाळ्यात सर्वत्र काहिली होत असताना कोकणकड्यावरील गार वारा सुखावह अनुभव देतो. हिवाळ्यात आल्हाददायक थंड हवा इथे अनुभवता येते.पावसाळ्यात ढग खाली येतात आणि दाट धुक्याची दुलई पांघरलेला कोकणकडा एक वेगळाच पावसाळी अनुभव देतो.

पावसाळ्यात कोकणकड्याच्या दरीत पावसाचे ढग अडकतात (अंतर्वक्र आकारामुळे) आणि त्याच वेळेस जर दुसर्‍या बाजूला (विरूद्ध दिशेला) सूर्यप्रकाश असेल तर तिथे माणसाची सावली मागील ढगांवर पडते आणि एका विशिष्ट वेळेस त्या सावलीभोवती पुर्ण इंद्रधनुष्य दिसते, यालाच इंद्रवज्र असे म्हणतात. इंद्रवज्र फारच क्वचित अनुभवता येते.

सप्ततीर्थ आणि पुष्कर्णी

हरिश्चंद्रेश्वर मंदिराच्या उजव्या बाजूला सलग १४ छोट्या कोनाड्यांचा एक समुह बघावयास मिळतो.या कोनाड्यांमध्ये भगवान विष्णुदेवांच्या मूर्ती होत्या.पण साधारण १० -१२ वर्षापूर्वी येथे येणाऱ्या पर्यटकांच्या बेजबाबदार वर्तनामुळे अशा पवित्र जागी झालेल्या अस्वच्छतेमुळे त्या मूर्ती मुख्य मंदिरात ठेवण्याचा निर्णय घेण्यात आला होता.या समुहासमोर एक कुंड आहे.१० -१२ वर्षापूर्वी तेथील पाणी पिण्ययोग्य होते असे म्हणतात.आता ते खराब झाले आहे.हरिश्चंद्रगडावर येणारे काही सुजाण पर्यटक या वास्तूचे वैभव पुनरुज्जीवित करण्याचा प्रयत्न करत आहेत. त्यांना यात काही प्रमाणात यशही आले आहे.

केदारेश्वर गुहा

केदारेश्वर गुहा ही हरिश्चंद्रेश्वर मंदिराच्या उजवीकडे खाली आहे.हरिश्चंद्रेश्वर मंदिराच्या आवारात असलेल्या गुहेच्या खाली असलेले पाण्याचे टाके या गुहेशी जोडलेले आहे.या गुहेत एक मोठे शिवलिंग आहे.या शिवलिंगाभोवती असणारे पाणी अतिशय थंड आहे. या गुहेच्या बाजूला एक खोली आहे.या गुहेच्या भिंतीवर काही प्राचीन चित्रे कोरली आहेत.या शिवलिंगाभोवती असलेल्या सभामंडपात चार खांब होते. आज संपूर्ण सभामंडप आश्चर्यकारक रित्या केवळ एका खांबावर तोलले आहे.एका प्रथेनुसार हे शिवलिंग स्वयंभू असून त्या सभामंडपातील चार खांब हे चार युगांना दर्शवतात.यातील एक शिल्लक असलेला खांब कलियुगाला दर्शवतो आणि ज्या हा खांब ज्या क्षणी कोसळेल त्या क्षणी कलियुगाचा अंत होऊन जगाचा विनाश होईल.

तारामती शिखर

तारामती शिखर हे हरिश्चंद्रगडावरचा सर्वात उंच स्थान आहे.येथे जाणारी पायवाट हरिश्चंद्रेश्वर मंदिराच्या जवळून जाते.इथे येण्यास हरिश्चंद्रेश्वर मंदिरापासून साधारण अर्धा तास लागतो.इथे येण्यासाठी खडी चढण पार करावी लागते.तारामती शिखराजवळ एक गणेश मूर्ती आहे. तारामती शिखरावरून खाली कोकणकडा, एका बाजूस रोहिदास शिखर दिसते.

छायाचित्रे

सौरउर्जेवर चालणारे दिवे (हरिश्चंद्रेश्वर मंदिर)

Kalsubai – Everest of Maharashtra

Kalsubai

Information

Type

It is the tallest peak in Sahyadri mountain range with the height of 1646 m (5400 ft.).The top of peak is very small in terms of area and nothing to visit except a small Kalsubai Temple.

Location

Kalsubai peak is located on the hill near village Bari which is in Ahmadnagar district. Bari is 14 KM from Bhandardara.

How to reach ?

There are two routes to reach Kalsubai peak.First route is from Bari (Jagirdarwadi) and other route is from Indore village.The route from Bari is popular one & straightforward whereas Indore route is not much explored and unpopular.

You can reach Bari village,155 KM from Mumbai (Mumbai-Shahpur-Kasara-Igatpuri- Ghoti-Rajur) route, 21 KM from Ghoti on Ghoti – Bhandardara route) and 170 KM from Pune (Pune-Narayangaon-Ozar-Otur-Kotul- Rajur-Ghoti) route,25 KM from Rajur on Rajur-Ghoti road) by private vehicle or state transport bus.

In case you want to reach here by public transport from Mumbai,you can reach Igatpuri either by train or bus or jeep from Kasara (local train to Kasara).You will get state transport bus from Igatpuri towards Sangamner or Rajur which takes you at Bari. Bari is 33 KM from Igatpuri.

In case you are coming by public transport from Pune,you can reach Sangamner by bus (Pune – Nashik bus) and then reach Bari by another bus towards Ghoti or Igatpuri.This is longer route compared to that mentioned earlier but best one due to bad frequency of buses & the only one time change of vehicle.

The public vehicles halt on the main road and you need to walk almost a kilometer to reach at Jagirdarwadi (starting point).Initial path of trek is through fields with negligible ascend that takes you to Base Kalsubai temple.It takes around half an hour to reach at this temple.There are few more routes which take you at the temple.The left side route from base Kalsubai temple heads to Kalsubai peak.

The gradual ascend on soil based path begins and it takes 25-30 minutes to reach near first ladder.

This part of trek becomes muddy in rainy season.The first ladder is approx. 30-40 ft.tall.There are fixed railing for support on either sides of ladder.

After first ladder, 20-25 minutes path of steeper ascend having zig-zag steps take you at the second ladder.There are two parallel ladders (8-10 ft. tall) placed on the either sides of huge rock.This ladder is simple compared to other ladders.

The zig zag steps continue for next 30-35 minutes.You can enjoy spectacular view of surroundings and tiny houses of Bari village while moving up.You reach third ladder which is approx. 40-50 ft. tall and steeper compared to first two ladders.

The peak of Kalsubai is located on the mountain base.We are now about to reach at the top of that mountain base. A gradual ascend of 20-25 minutes take you at plain area.The final ladder that take you to the peak is now on 5 minutes walking distance.The final ladder is approx.30-40 ft. and steepest of all.After ascending the final ladder,you reach on the peak which is primarily of a rocky terrain.

A tiny Kalsubai temple is at the center of that peak surrounded by uneven rocky terrain.The temple is such a small that only one person can enter from 3.5-4 ft entrance and take darshan.This peak is well fenced by railings.

Trekking is generally a combination of ascend,descend and ground route. Kalsubai, however is a special case where while trekking you observe that you are only ascending.

You can watch spectacular views from any corner of the tallest peak in Sahyadri and in Maharashtra.The picturesque views from this peak are treat for nature photographers.

Total Ascend/Descend Time – Off Season (Weekdays in Rainy Season / Summer / Winter)

2 hours 30 minutes (Ascending)/ 2 hours 10 minutes (Descending)

30 minutes (Ascending)/ 30 minutes (Descending)- Bari to Base Kalsubai Temple and vice-versa

110 minutes (Ascending)/ 90 minutes (Descending) Base Kalsubai Temple to Plain area before final ladder and vice versa

10 minutes (Ascending)/ 10 minutes (Descending) -Plain area before final ladder to Main Kalsubai Temple

Total Ascend/Descend Time – Season (Weekends in Rainy Season)

3 hours 30 minutes (Ascending)/ 3 hours (Descending)

30 minutes (Ascending)/ 30 minutes (Descending)- Bari to Base Kalsubai Temple and vice-versa

160 minutes (Ascending)/ 130 minutes (Descending) Base Kalsubai Temple to Plain area before final ladder and vice versa (Due to cue on ladders)

20 minutes (Ascending)/ 20 minutes (Descending) -Plain area before final ladder to Main Kalsubai Temple

Note – This is an estimated time.Actual time can very with crowd and atmosphere at that point.

Places of Interest –

Kalsubai Temple –

Kalsubai temple is a tiny temple (Approx 10 ft tall) at peak.It has an idol of goddess Kalsubai.The space inside the temple is so less that only one devotee can take the darshan at a time.The original temple which was painted with red & saffron earlier was repainted with Saffron,red & yellow colors and renovated.It is now beautified with small Ganesha painting on the top of tiny temple entrance and painted lotus carvings on either sides of the entrance.

Kalsubai Peak –

The small area of the peak has rocky terrain.You can watch a 360 degree spectacular view from top.You can watch the landscape near Indore village and hills northwards,fort range of Alang,Kulang and Madan westwards,Bhandardara lake southwards and landscape near Bari village & our route eastwards.

Base Kalsubai Temple (Nivasini Temple) –

Considering the limited space at the top of peak and limited capabilities of every person to hike the steep climb the villagers built a small Kalsubai temple at the base approximately half an hour from village Bari.This is a proper temple with thatched roof unlike the main temple and has idols of goddess.It is called as Kalsubai Nivasini Temple.

Accommodation –

This trek can be completed in one day and hence accommodation is generally not required.The best choice is to reach Bari early morning and return to Mumbai or Pune same night.If someone wants to visit multiple forts in one trip then they can stay at Bari village or if someone wants to visit Bhandardara and forts near Bhandardara in one trip then they can stay at Bhandardara.

In weekends (Rainy season and Winter) there are lot of small stalls of Tea, Snacks,Breakfast,Water bottles etc.on the way. In weekdays, you can carry water from village.Breakfast and lunch are available in village (For breakfast and lunch you need to confirm them in advance)

When to Visit ?

You can visit Kalsubai in any season but preferable to visit in Rainy Season and Winter due to pleasant and delightful weather conditions.

In Rainy Season you can enjoy the experience of being above the clouds.In case of very heavy rain visibility at the top is very poor.One must take care while trekking in such condition as there are 4-5 ladders.

Kalsubai being tallest peak of Sahyadri and Maharashtra is in the bucket list of most of people staying in Maharashtra (especially Mumbai, Pune and Nasik) resulting in turning huge crowd in weekends.As there are three long ladders in the way (where it is recommended that only one person can move either up or down) ,it creates long queues on the either sides of ladders.It is recommended to visit Kalsubai on weekdays or on Saturday instead of Sunday if you have choice.

My Experience

First Experience (August 2011) –

I visited Kalsubai twice with a trekking group.First time I visited on 15 August 2011.We started our journey from Mumbai on 11 p.m (14 August) in a private bus and reached Bari village on 5.00 a.m.(15 August).We ensured to have enough sleep in the standstill bus after reaching Bari village.It is a good practice to reach base village early morning and start trek early.

It was raining outside.The darkness unfolded slowly and Sun came out.A misty morning ,lush greenery of surrounding fields,mixed sound of chirping birds,falling raindrops and blowing winds welcomed us in Bari.Such life which is far from the Urban world calms you and motivates you to start your day with fresh mind.After completing our morning rituals,we gathered near a school for flag hoisting along with school children.After flag hoisting our group arranged breakfast and tea.

We had our breakfast & Tea and prepared to start the trek.We started on 8.30 a.m.It was still raining.There are small streams on the way in rainy season. The muddy path took us near base Kalsubai temple on 9.00 a.m.The mountain of Kalsubai,which was in complete fog early in the morning now started showing its beauty.We moved ahead listening to chirping birds and gusting winds.

We were enjoying our journey in the presence of the spectacular surrounding views through passing clouds.We had no clue of time.It was raining continuously and fortunately for us it was light rain.When we climbed third ladder,we took rest for a minute. It was thick fog around us and we decided to move slowly.We moved ahead and could not even realize when we reached at the top.It was 11 a.m.

I took darshan in the main Kalsubai temple and took rest on the nearby rocks.Even after wearing windcheater I was feeling chilly weather.All of sudden hails started falling and sound of teeth followed the sound of hailstones.The hailstorm lasted for few minutes.

We decided to descend on 11.30 a.m.There was no rain in the return journey but weather was pleasant.While we were about to reach at Bari, first time we had sight of bright Sun peeping through the clouds.We reached Bari on 1.30 p.m had our basic lunch in the house at Bari on 2 p.m. and returned to Mumbai.

Second Experience (June 2019) –

My Second experience was entirely different due to different weather and huge amount of crowd gathering on that day (not from our trekking group).I visited Kalsubai after 8 years on 23 June 2019.We went with the trekking group. We started our journey from Mumbai on 11.30 p.m. (22 June),reached Kalsubai on 6.00 a.m. (23 June).

It was drizzling.The face of village changed drastically.The village which was 15-20 homes 8 years back now turned into big modern day village.I saw large no. of tourist buses parked near our bus.I realized that it would take longer time compared to my earlier visit.

We started walking on the road inside the village Bari.I could not recognize the school as it was renovated and modernized.We reached at one village home, had tasty breakfast and tea arranged by our trekking group and came outside.We had a group of 30-40 trekkers. It was bright sunshine when we started on 8.00 a.m. Approx. 300-400 trekkers from different trekking groups on that day.

We reached at base Kalsubai temple on 8.30 a.m. crossing small stream in the soil based path.There were some passing showers in mostly sunny morning.While ascending we saw a long queue.I estimated that we reached near first ladder.We had to move with snails pace while we actually start climbing the ladder.

After climbing the ladder I saw huge crowd moving up.We waited for 10-15 minutes behind the third ladder as there was long queue on either sides of ladder.As the space at the Kalsubai peak is limited and there was huge crowd moving up , we decided to wait on the plains behind the final ladder.It was sunny day and we hardly had any rest.

We finally reached Kalsubai peak on 11.45 p.m.It took 3 hrs.45 minutes to reach the top.I took darshan.

We saw spectacular views of following -South side – Landscape near Bhandardara lake (We could not see Bhandardara lake due to clouds)East Side – Landscape near Bari village and our trek routeWest Side – Landscape and Hills but could not see Alang,Kulang and Madan forts due to cloudsNorth Side – Landscape near Indore village and nearby hillsThere were some clouds in the air just like cotton floating in the air. side area was not clearly visible due to passing clouds.

Things to Carry

One Day Hikes – A pair of trekking shoes,Haversack,,A pair of changing clothes,Water (at least 2 litres),Torch with pair of batteries,Small scissor or knife,Easy snacks,Medical Kit (Electrol Powder + Tablets on Vomiting, dizziness fever,body pain etc +Bandage and instant relief spray or medicine on bruise + cotton piece),Other regular medicines(optional),Napkin,Towel,Handkerchief ,other things which you find necessary.

Multiple Day Hikes – Things mentioned in One Day Hikes +Sleeping Mat or Sleeping Bag,Toothpaste and brush,Ready to cook food packets and tea bags,other things which you find necessary.

Photos –

Note :

1)You are requested not to litter on or near the fort,temples,sculptures,caves and historical monuments.Please keep the sanctity of our historical heritage.

2) You are requested to avoid listening high pitched volume audios while passing through the forest instead listen the chirping of different birds.

3) Please carry a garbage bag/s with you depending upon the size of group.Carry the garbage with you while descending and throw garbage in dustbins placed in base villages.

4) Walls of caves,temples and other monuments are not right surfaces to showcase your artwork.

Harishchandragad – Hiker’s Delight

Harishchandragad

Information

Type

It is a hill fort with minimal or no fortification (Walls,Bastions etc.) which can only be reached by hiking or trekking.

Location

This fort is located where borders of Thane,Pune and Ahmednagar districts meet near Malshej Ghat.

How to reach ?

There are three base villages from three districts to reach the fort.

Khireshwar –

This is the most popular route among hikers as it provides good amount of thrill and enjoyment.This village is located in Pune district.

You can reach here by road from Mumbai (145 KM) taking Kalyan-Murbad-Malshej Ghat- Khubi Phata-Khireshwar route.You can reach from Pune (125 KM) by road taking Pune-Narayangaon-Junnar-Khubi Phata-Khireshwar route.

You need to reach Khubi phata in case if you are traveling by public transport like ST bus.

If you are coming from Mumbai,you can get down at Thane or Kalyan railway stations and can travel in ST bus [ST buses of destinations like Junnar or Ahmadnagar run via Malshej Ghat and generally have Khubi Phata as their halt].

If you are coming from Pune,reach Junnar first and then any bus running via Malshej Ghat takes you at Khubi Phata.From Khubi Phata you can walk on road to Khireshwar.

The road from Khubi Phata to Khireshwar [3-4 KM] runs parallel to the Pimpalgaon Joga Dam.After the village the road ends in dense forest which is a starting point of our trek.

The hike of 4 to 5 hours takes you at Harishchandreshwar Temple.The hike from Khireshwar is medium tough.

First, a gradual ascend on the narrow path from starting point to Tolar khind (a small V Shaped pass visible from starting point).

Second a steep ascend on the narrow route in giant rocks and at the end a wide road of small ascend and descend.

The first ascend is easy to hike and takes 1 to 1.5 hrs to reach Tolar Khind. Be careful on this route as there is high probability to get lost in the dense forest if you choose wrong route so take a guide from village if you are visiting first time [if you won’t get guide then as a trial and error you have to check the way which is continuously ascending towards V shaped Tolar khind].

Once you reach at Tolar Khind then you will see two routes,one towards left ascending and other descending to the other side of the hill.

Take the left ascending route where rock patch starts.Rock patch is the toughest part in the hike which takes 40-45 minutes.Be careful as rocks become slippery in rainy season.The rock patch test your hiking skills.Those who have problems of vertigo,need to move slowly and carefully at times taking momentary rests as there is deep valley on the other side.

Once you complete the rock patch,you reach on the plains from where you can enjoy a delightful view of Pimpalgaon Joga Dam.

Last part is the easiest part of trek which takes 2-2.5 hours.If you are visiting in summer, always remember to carry enough water from Khireshwar to keep yourself hydrated due to absence of drinkable water till we reach at temple.The path after plains pass through small ascends and descends which also has some forest cover.The rock carved Harishchandreshwar temple and its golden apex can be easily recognized from distance.

Paachnai –

This village is located in Ahmednagar district.You can reach here from Mumbai (225 KM) by road as below –

Mumbai-Kalyan-Shahapur-Malshej Ghat -Khubi Phata – Otur- Bramhanwada- Kotul-Kothale- Paachnai or

The other route from Mumbai (210 KM) by road as below –

Mumbai-Shahapur-Igatpuri-Ghoti – Bhandardara – Rajur – Kothale – Paachnai

You can reach from Pune (160 KM) by road as below –

Pune – Chakan – Rajgurunagar – Manchar- Narayangaon – Ozar – Otur – Bramhanwada- Kotul-Kothale- Paachnai

Paachnai is a secluded village but nearest to the fort.You may need to take the help of locals to reach the village as GPS may not work in remote areas.

There is no direct bus service from major cities like Mumbai or Pune so if you are visiting in public transport then you will have to change 2-3 ST buses to reach Paachnai and hence most people prefer to come here in private vehicle from Mumbai or Pune.

Once you reach Paachnai village (very small village) a simple 1.5-2 hours trek takes you to the Harishchandreshwar Temple.The hike from Paachnai is simplest out of three routes.The initial one hour ascend from Paachnai is medium steep.

A narrow road with valley at one end and mountain wall at other end takes you to the plains and then enters the dense forest.At some part of hike road is carved through the mountain rocks creating tiny horizontal caves for rest especially in summer.In rains loads of water flow above those caves.

Once you reach the plains a picturesque views of landscape, trapezoid shaped Kaladgad fort and stream of Mangalganga river in valley give happiness to your eyes and soul.The route enters in dense forest and an easy ascend of almost 45 minutes to an hour takes you to the temple. You can also stay in Paachnai and visit fort Kaladgad and Harishchandragad in one trip.

Nalichi Vaat –

This way is from Walhivare village in Thane district.You can reach here from Mumbai (120 KM) by road on Kalyan-Murbad-Moroshi route.You can reach from Pune (160 KM) by road on Pune-Narayangaon-Otur (from Otur same as Mumbai route).

This is the toughest out of three routes and can only be attempted by mountaineers who carry equipment like ropes,harness for their treks or are capable enough to climb steep rocks with deep valley at one side with equipment. The entire route encounters climbing tall rocks with rope and on the edge of the hill.This route takes you to the Konkan Kada. It takes 8-10 hours to reach at Konkan Kada.

Total Ascend/Descend Time –

Khireshwar Route –

4 hours 30 minutes (Ascending)/ 3 hours 50 minutes (Descending) (From Khireshwar village where you can reach and park your private vehicle)

5 hours 30 minutes (Ascending)/ 4 hours 50 minutes (Descending) (From Khubi Phata bus stop where you can reach by public transport)

60 minutes – Walk from Khubi Phata bus stop to Khireshwar Village

90 minutes (Ascending)/ 75 minutes (Descending)- Khireshwar to Tolar khind and vice-versa

45 minutes (Ascending)/ 35 minutes (Descending) Tolar khind to Plain above rock patch and vice versa

135 minutes (Ascending)/ 120 minutes (Descending) – Plain above rock patch to Harishchandreshwar Temple

Paachnai route –

2 hours (Ascending)/ 1 hour 35 minutes (Descending)

60 minutes (Ascending)/ 45 minutes (Descending)- Paachnai to End of Ascend in gorge view and vice-versa

60 minutes (Ascending)/ 50 minutes (Descending) End of ascend in the gorge view to Harishchandreshwar Temple vice versa

Note – This is an estimated time.Actual time can very with crowd and atmosphere at that point.

Places of Interest –

Harishchandreshwar Temple

This Hemadpanti style lord Shiva temple carved in a single giant rock [main temple in single rock] is the main attraction on the fort.

The main temple is protected with the stone wall.There are beautiful red lead based lord Ganesha idols on sides of main temple (Architects of ancient times used red lead for idols as it does not dissolve in water and hence even the heaviest rain cannot affect the idol).

The apex of Temple is Golden and clearly visible from distance.A small entrance with temple bells and Trishul welcomes you.There is a Shivalinga in the main temple with a large cave behind the main temple.There are some ruin structures in the vicinity of the temple.

Drinkable water is available at a built cistern near temple.There are rock carved steps to reach at this closed cistern which is practically beneath the temple well protected by rocks.The cistern is so constructed that even in summer if people stay in cave behind temple,they have enough water to use.

Saptatirth and Pushkarni

There are seven fourteen temples of lord Vishnu at the east side of the temple with a small lake (Pushkarni) in front of those fourteen temple.

Konkankada –

As the name suggests Konkan Kada is cliff falling in Konkan.This is a concave shaped cliff with higher height of both ends of the concave (like a concave broken saucer from centre)towards west side of the fort.

Due to the sheer steep altitude drop of 1000 meters the landscape is not easily visible.Due to its altitude drop and concave nature Konkan Kada is a must visit place on Harishchandragad. The absence of any nearby hill of same or higher height results in blowing of high speed winds which give delightful feeling and unique experience even in summer.

This place can also be termed as ‘Sunset Point’ of Harishchandragad as it offers excellent sunset view. In Rains,this place is covered with thick fog and one must take care as there is no railing at the end of 1000 meter drop.You will have feeling of standing above clouds in rains.

Kedareshwar Cave Temple –

This Cave is located near temple.This Cave has large shivlinga surrounded by four pillars (three are in broken stage) placed in freezing water.It is said to be the origin of Mangalganga river.

Accommodation –

There is a large cave behind the temple where 10 people can stay.There are caves called Ganesh Caves above Saptatirth where 10-15 people can stay.Hikers can also set tents in near temple or at Konkankada.The accommodation in caves is free.Food arrangements need to be done by hikers themselves.Locals sometimes set up their stalls near temple from where food arrangements can be done.Drinking water is available near the pond of the temple.

When to Visit ?

You can visit Harishchandragad throughout the year.

Winter – Hikers prefer to visit the fort in winters due to less risky hike and experience scenic views from Konkankada & misty mornings.Locals prefer to set up their stalls in Winters.

Summer –Hikers least prefer to visit the fort (In April and May months) in summer due to high fatigue while hiking and hot weather.One specific reason to visit in summer is the Stargazing.Absence of mist and smog free weather on the fort makes it a place for Stargazing.

Rainy Season- Due to heavy rains and foggy weather rainy season give completely different experience to hikers.If you are lucky you can see broken spectre in morning at Konkankada.

My Experience

I visited Harishchandragad with my 10 friends on 28 February and 1 March 2009 in a private vehicle.We started from Mumbai on 27 February late night and reached Khireshwar village in the morning 6 a.m.

We initially took a wrong path (took wider path and after some hike came to know that that was the route of Waterfall.We could see the path from lower level but not finding the way to reach there) and wasted half an hour.We came back at the starting point and had our breakfast Fortunately,one local was ready and we finally started our trek on 7 a.m.First one hour hike being gradual ascend in dense forest,was less tiresome.

We reached at Tolar Khind on 8.15 a.m. approx. and took a small break before rock patch.We started the tough ascend of rock patch on 8.30 a.m. but due to the shinning sun required 45 minutes to trek the rock patch (Had we took the right path initially and not wasted the first hour,we could have started ascending this tough patch on 7.30 a.m).We reached above rock patch on 9.15 a.m and took a small break.This point gives scenic,paneromic view of Pimpalgaon Joga Dam,Malshej Road and surroundings.

The tough ascend is over and then after crossing number of hillocks (which includes small ascend and descend just to cross the hill),we reached at Temple on 11.45 a.m.We were lucky enough to get accommodation in the cave behind the main temple.We had our lunch.After the tiresome journey we had a good sleep of 3 hours.

We got up on 4.30 p.m,had our tea and were ready to visit at Konkankada.The route for Konkankada starts with small ascend right behind the temple.After ascend the route passes through a dense forest which opens at an open ground which is the centre of the concave structure of Konkankada.We reached at Konkankada on 5 p.m.

We then walked some distance to the left (one side of concave towards Rohidas peak) and then to the right (Nalichi Vaat ends here).We watched sunset.The winds are so heavy that if you attempt to throw an empty plastic bottle towards valley then wind pulls it back to Konkankada.After Sunset we returned to temple on 7.30 p.m,had our dinner and came outside the temple for Stargazing.

As city kids we all had a satisfying experience of watching full lit sky by stars.Astronomy lovers can carry binoculars and other small portable equipments for Stargazing.After fully enjoying the experience of Stargazing for half an hour we returned to temple and started playing card games in the cave.After playing card games for almost an hour we went to sleep on 9.30-10 p.m.

After having a good 8-8.5 hours sleep,we got up on 5.30 a.m. had morning activities, had breakfast and got ready on 8 a.m for next sight-seeing. We visited the Saptatirth,Pushkarni and Kedareshwar Cave which are near the temple.Due to the irresponsible behavior of some trekkers Saptatirth and Pushkarni lost its charm.The water in Pushkarni was dirty.

We started our return journey on 10 a.m. We decided to get down from Paachnai route and communicated same to our driver.After a 15-20 minute walk a dense forest started along with gradual descend and thanks to the dense forest we never felt tired for next one hour descend.

After one hour descend the way passes through valley at one end and mountain of Harishchandragad on other end.The path becomes narrow and descend becomes steeper (but not as steep as rock patch which we experienced while ascending).We had to take few breaks as we started feeling tired with increasing heat in the air and shining sun.We finally reached at Paachnai on 11.45 a.m and waited for the vehicle to come.

We tried to call the driver but none of us had the network.Paachnai was a very small and secluded village then with very basic facilities.The vehicle didn’t arrive even after an hour and we decided to walk on road towards the vehicle.After almost half an hour walk on road finally we could see vehicle arrived.We then had late lunch at Otur on 4 p.m. as there were no good hotels on the road and Otur is comparitively bigger town.We returned at Mumbai with sweet and sour memories of Harishchandragad on 9.30 p.m.

Things to Carry

Multiple Day Hikes – Things mentioned in One Day Hikes +Sleeping Mat or Sleeping Bag,Toothpaste and brush,Ready to cook food packets and tea bags,other things which you find necessary.